A 4.5-hour YHT high-speed train from Istanbul brings you to Ankara, where you board the Touristic Eastern Express for the 1,360 km, 33-hour eastbound run through Kayseri, Sivas, Erzincan and Erzurum -…
Clear immigration, then take the M11 metro and Marmaray east to Pendik, allowing 90 minutes. The YHT terminal sits beside the Marmaray station, so the change is short.
Settle into a reserved seat for the run across the Anatolian plateau, with the dining car serving tea and sandwiches. Sit on the left for views of the snow-capped mountains in winter.
Eat Ankara tava, a tray of lamb, rice and pastry, at a restaurant near Kizilay square, then walk to Guvenpark. The district is busy until late and taxis are easy to find.
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Train sleeper compartment plus hotels in Ankara and Kars, 5 nights
Dining-car dinners, Kars goose and honey cream breakfasts
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Book as soon as tickets open, usually weeks to a couple of months ahead, since sleeper berths on the Touristic Eastern Express sell out fast for the December-February window. Demand peaks around New Year and school holidays. Book through the national rail operator or a Turkish travel agent, and confirm the departure day, as it does not run daily.
The Touristic Eastern Express runs from Ankara to Kars over roughly 33 hours with sleeper and couchette compartments. The fare covers the berth, and the format includes around three hours off-train at stops such as Sivas, Erzincan and Erzurum. Food is limited, so bring snacks and water. Confirm bedding and breakfast when you book.
Kars sits on the high eastern plateau and winter days often stay below freezing, while Ani is exposed to strong wind on open ground. Pack insulated layers, a windproof outer shell, gloves, a hat and warm boots with grip. Hand warmers and a thermos help. Check road conditions before the Ani day trip, as snow can close the route.
No special permit is normally needed for the Ani archaeological site, but it sits in a sensitive border zone, so carry your passport and expect security checks. Rules and access can change, so check current advice before travelling and follow your guide's instructions. The site is reached by private car from Kars, about 45 minutes each way.
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