Fly into Montreal (YUL). Days: Old Montreal, Notre-Dame Basilica and Mount Royal, a 3.5-hour VIA Rail to Quebec City for the UNESCO-listed Old Quebec, Petit Champlain and the Plains of Abraham, then a…
The 747 bus runs from YUL to downtown in about 45 minutes on a single transit fare. Buy a 24-hour pass from the machine in arrivals, as the bus driver does not take cash.
Walk from Place d'Armes down to Place Jacques-Cartier and on to the waterfront. The cobbles are uneven after rain, and the descent to the quay takes about 20 minutes at a stroll.
Rue Saint-Paul has the densest run of restaurants in the old town. Book ahead for Friday and Saturday nights, and expect French menus with English spoken almost everywhere.
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Old-town hotels, 4 nights
Poutine, smoked meat and bagels
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French is the first language in Quebec, but most people in Montreal and central Quebec City switch to English readily. Learning a few basics such as bonjour and merci is appreciated. Menus and signs are in French, and some smaller shops outside the tourist core are French-only. A translation app covers the gaps.
VIA Rail runs several trains a day between Montreal and Quebec City in about 3.5 hours, arriving at Gare du Palais near Old Quebec. Book online ahead for the best fares; seats sell out around festivals and the winter carnival. Buses take longer but are cheaper. Once there, both cities are walkable, so no rental car is needed.
May through October is the easiest window, with festivals, terraces and pleasant walking weather. September and early October bring fall colour to the Plains of Abraham and Mount Royal. February's Quebec Winter Carnival is the standout winter event, but expect -10 to -25 C. Book hotels early for festival weekends in both cities.
This Comfort itinerary is priced at roughly $1,790-2,390 or EUR 1,560-2,080 per person, excluding flights, covering mid-range hotels, VIA Rail and main sights. Tipping 15 percent is standard in restaurants and bars, and sales tax is added on top of menu prices. Montreal and Old Quebec hotels cost more during summer festival season.
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