Base in Shinjuku or central Tokyo and let the JR Yamanote line and metro do the work: arrival and a first night in Shinjuku, then Asakusa, Skytree and Ueno, followed by Shibuya Crossing, Harajuku and…
Clear immigration and take the airport rail link into central Tokyo, changing once for Shinjuku. Haneda is the faster option at about 40 minutes; Narita takes 75 to 90 minutes, so allow for the longer ride.
Walk the neon grid of Kabukicho, past arcades, izakaya signs and the Godzilla head above the cinema. It is lively and safe in the main lanes; ignore touts offering bar deals and keep your bag zipped in crowds.
Pick a tiny counter in the Omoide Yokocho alley for skewers, stewed tofu and a cold beer. Seats are limited and a small otoshi charge is normal; many shops are cash-only and close when ingredients run out.
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Central business hotels, 4 nights
Sushi, ramen, tonkatsu and izakaya small plates
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Haneda is closer to central Tokyo, with trains into the city in under 30 minutes, while Narita is cheaper for some long-haul fares but adds an hour or more. Compare total fares and arrival times, then pick the airport that suits your hotel.
An IC card makes JR, metro, bus and convenience store payments tap-and-go, and visitors can now add a digital Suica to a phone wallet. Physical cards are also sold at station machines; a one-day metro pass can be cheaper on heavy sightseeing days.
March to April and October to November give mild 15-25 C weather and the most comfortable walking. July and August are hot and humid at 30-35 C, and Golden Week in early May plus cherry blossom weeks bring the heaviest domestic crowds.
Yes. The early-morning tuna auction viewing at Toyosu Market requires a reservation made in advance, usually through a lottery on the market's official site, with limited places each day. Apply well ahead; the sushi restaurants need no booking but fill early.
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