Fly into Zagreb and out of Dubrovnik: the trip opens in Zagreb's upper town, buses down to the Plitvice Lakes boardwalks, then follows the coast through Zadar's sea organ, Split's Diocletian's Palace,…
Clear passport control at ZAG, then take the shuttle to the main bus station and a tram or short taxi up to the Upper Town. Buy the shuttle ticket at the desk inside arrivals; drivers charge more on board.
Ride the short funicular from Tomiceva Street, then follow Strossmayer Promenade past St Mark's Church with its tiled roof. The lanes are quiet after 18:00 and most kitchens serve until 23:00.
Try strukli, a baked cheese or apple pastry, at a konoba near St Mark's with a glass of Grasevina white. Book ahead at weekends; portions are filling, so one plate each is usually enough.
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Mid-range hotels, 11 nights
Coastal tavernas and peka dinners
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Croatia follows Schengen short-stay rules, so US, UK, Canadian, Australian and Japanese passports usually enter visa-free for 90 days in any 180. Other nationalities need a Schengen visa arranged before travel. Rules depend on your passport, so check the Croatia visa section and confirm validity of three months beyond departure.
May, June and September give 20-28 C, swimmable Adriatic water and far thinner crowds than July and August. The Plitvice boardwalks are green and flowing in late spring and early autumn. High summer is hottest and busiest, with the highest ferry and hotel demand, so book early if you travel then.
Foot passengers can usually buy tickets a day or two ahead, but car ferries and summer weekend crossings sell out, so reserve on the Jadrolinija site as soon as dates are fixed. Split to Hvar town takes about an hour by catamaran, while the car ferry to Stari Grad takes closer to two hours.
Expect roughly $2,990-4,490 (about EUR 2,600-3,900) per person for comfortable hotels, ferries, buses and daily meals. July and August lift Dubrovnik and Hvar rooms sharply, while May, June and September cut rates. Add extra for Plitvice entry, cable cars and boat excursions.
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